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ESSAYS
Travel
Essay
Sarande Local
The furgon (van) is already full when it arrives, but then full is not a number here. Full is a mood, a negotiation, a flexible philosophy shaped by heat, proximity, and the driver’s private sense of
Essay
Istanbul - A Study in Contradiction
I keep staring at the math, and then I walk outside, and the math laughs at me.
Essay
“Big Brother” on Galata Hill
I’m in the fourth week of a one-month stay in Istanbul, living a short uphill slog from Galata Tower — that medieval exclamation point in the skyline, now supervising a daily parade of selfie sticks a
Essay
Monuments and Cotton Candy
The boats are coming in.
Essay
Adam's Housecat
The trail went up for three hours and we all stopped pretending we were enjoying it somewhere around the second. Twenty of us, more or less — expats, a couple of long-term tourists like me, the loose